The Edge of the World

The city of Riyadh sits atop a plateau in the desert landscape, and just a short drive out of the city exists the dramatic vista showcasing this topographical wonder known as "The Edge of the World". I'm not really sure who gave it that title because it certainly isn't in my Lonely Planet and I doubt the bedouin roaming about call it anything special - but say you're going to The Edge of the World to any expat living here and they surely know what you mean: stunning scenery - check; desert 4x4ing - check; un-abayaed Western girls in tank-tops - check; fraternizing with the opposite sex - check!

The members of this expedition come from all over the planet but they all have one thing in common - a longing for Western style socialization. People come to this country to do every job imaginable from teaching to nursing to engineering, and while many come for the pay check, a lot stay because the lifestyle is so enjoyable. The main exception to that being the rigid segregation of the sexes that Westerners find so confusing and annoying. Strictly speaking it is illegal for an unmarried man and woman to even be in the same car together, let alone a car full of single men and women!

The key, we were told, to not getting stopped by the religious police was to look inconspicuous - somehow 20 SUVs full of Westerners driving caravan style out of Riyadh is not my definition of inconspicuous, but all went well and a few kilometres off the highway we stopped for the first time so us girls could rip off our abayas and shove them under the seats. A few escapades with a tow-rope and an SUV vs. steel rod incident later, we arrived at our campsite and the amicable scene that unfolded was like any campground in Kananaskis (with the added bonus of camel poop) - people throwing footballs, tents springing up beside little charcoal cooking stoves and music ringing from open car doors.

Of course such a sublime mood didn't last long - once the sun was down the restrictions of this land were cast aside and debauchery ensued. What else had I expected? As it turns out though I missed most of the "thrilling" drunk boy fighting because I was off enjoying the stars and the cool desert wind.

The next morning we scrambled along the very edge of The Edge of The World and were rewarded by the breathtaking views. I wonder how many nationals of this country come out here to appreciate the vastness and beauty of the desert - it doesn't seem to be very many. We did have a rather one sided argument with a bedouin camel shepherd in a Toyota who found it necessary to pick through our garbage and leave a mess all over the ground. Of course he didn't speak a word of English and most of the group were more enthralled by the herd of camels we found ourselves in, so it was a losing battle from the start.

Now back home, I can't quite bring myself to wash the desert sand off my abaya yet - the city is so confining and hospital orientation so mundane, I sort of want to keep the memory of the desert alive, at least for a little while.